Mr. Sawdust's thoughtful advice to a paraplegic woodworker
When I was building this new Mr. Sawdust website last year, I surfaced an unexpected time capsule on my hard drive — an archive of his original website, first online sometime around 1996, a year or so before he passed. This meant he had a chance to see his book start making its way out into the world and onto workbenches of fellow woodworkers.
He was even fielding questions and emails with those early readers, as well as others still deciding whether to buy his book. Ever the salesman, he wasn’t missing any opportunity to make the case for his book and earn himself another sale – a new friend.
At that time, some of these exchanges were added to the website, and one of them… it was just a pleasure to rediscover, to read (in my case) for the first time.
More than a few of the qualities that made Wallace such a class-act and an uncommon character – are all woven into his reply – to a man he never met, and likely never would. An instructor, an optimist, a salesman, a problem-solver, and simply a woodworker lending an ear, ready to make a new friend of a stranger.
So I'm sharing it again here…
“I have not bought your book yet but am interested. I would like an honest answer to the following question. I have been told that a table saw is a better saw for precision work and that a radial saw will not rip as easily or accurately. I am a parapelegic and wish to purchase a saw for wood working and think that I could use a radial arm saw more easily than a table saw. Are the comments on accuracy and precision valid or is the radial arm saw the equal of the table saw? Your response will be appreciated.
Respectfully,
Gary Kelly”
From Wallace Kunkel —
Gary…
That's a tough one. I assume you have the use of your arms, right? I'll give you unbiased answers, based on 40 years using both table and radial saws. First, for either saw, the choice of blade is extremely important. (I would advise you.)
* A table saw is not a better saw for precison work ... for ANYBODY. In all cases, the accuracy is up to the operator because he must push the material INTO, THROUGH, AND BEYOND the blade. In your case, it seems to me you'd finish the cut (either rip or crosscut) and have your face too close to a blade under power. Also, assuming you are in a wheel- chair, you are at a height where kickback in ripping could be disastrous.
* Also, because a table saw must sit in the middle of the shop, you will be forced to move your material 90 degrees between crosscuts and rips.
* A radial saw, an early DeWalt model (ONLY!) in perfect alignment and with the right blade, is far and away the most precise. In cross-cuts and miters, the material is forced against the fence by the blade. When I was demonstrating, I usually made those cuts, AND compound-miters, without holding the material AT ALL and with no loss of precision. Understand, this was with the ideal blade. * Because the radial saw sits against your longest wall and the material, for all cuts, flows parallel to the wall. This would save you much manhandling of material.
I know that handicapped people can solve many unusual problems. With either type of saw, ripping will be the REAL challenge. I have already mentioned kickback with a table saw. The fact that in ripping with a RAS, you are held out of a direct line with the ripping action. The fact that the table of the RAS will not let you get "lined-up" with the blade ... is certainly a PLUS. I still don't know how you would do it. I suppose you could lock your wheels (so you could push) and figure it out from there.
* Let's talk about height of machine. Whether table or radial, I'd consider setting either one at lower table height than ordinary. You need to get your hand-pressure DOWN on the material. It would also get your face and chest area away from hazard. The DeWalt can easily be set on a surface of any height. ( I've even used them sitting on the floor.)
There was a time when, as a technician, I could stop a table-saw "dead in its tracks" from the first cut:. 1) Square the end of a wide, long board. 2) Make a long, square crosscut ... or a long, perfect miter ... in the middle of a wide board ... and then control both pieces. 3) Make a perfect end-rabbet on the end of long board. 4,5,6,) Making precise, duplicate cuts ad infinitum ... to a measured .001" ... especially depth of cut in long dados. And this is only tre beginning.
My book really covers ALL of this. You'll only have to adapt to methods that meet YOUR challenges. My honest answer? I don't think you have a choice! Of the two types, forgetting about precision and performance, I think the table saw will present you with too many built-in hazards and handling problems. Truthfully, at THIS point, my book is your NEXT purchase.
I would sincerely like to keep in touch. If I can help you in any way, you know how to find me. GOOD LUCK. Interesting ... of course I'm 75 ... but the day 10 years ago when I lost the sight in one eye and consequently my depth-perception, I had no choice but to quit the shop or cut a hand off! Something I couldn't overcome. I know you'll have some special problems but ... none you can't overcome. And I sure wish you well.
Just thought of something: A cantilevered base for a DeWalt, that would hold the machine at an ADJUSTABLE height and allow a wheel-chair to move up under it. That shouldn't be too difficult.
Now, after all this, don't go out and buy a piece of junk from Sears or somewhere. Instead of that, get ANY kind of table-saw!
PLEASE write back, tell me the extent of your handicap ... and, for my curiosity, where are you from?
The First Mr. Sawdust Website (1996)
Here’s a few nostalgic screenshots — exactly as it was when the Internet was still brand new.